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Black Quachita Thornless Blackberries

     The 2012 Herbfest is the first year we sold Quachita Blackberry plants, originally hybridized at the Univ. of Arkansas.  Although we only had 20 plants ( 2 gallon containers, 1 year old, hardened outside entire 12 months in zone 7 climate )  we could tell this is one of the  healthy eating fruits our customers want.  The beauty of this plant is of course, thornless which means no major lacerations trying to pick the fruit!!!  Because it's so hardy and pest free these plants blend in well in a natural growing environment free of pesticides or other chemical agents.  

   Below is some information gleaned from Greenwood nursery on how to grow blackberry and raspberry plants as a general guide.....


Learn how to grow blackberries and raspberries.

All blackberry and raspberry plants are self-fertile and will have good fruit

production on their own. However, if a second variety is planted nearby, they will

have heavier fruit production. Upright blackberry and raspberry plants should be

planted 3 to 5 feet apart in full sun. Plant in soil with a pH level of 6.0 to 6.5 with

the crown (where the root system begins) no more than ½ inch below the

ground’s surface. Raspberry and Blackberry plants generally begin producing in

2 to 3 years. Typical fruit yield is 2 to 4 quarts per plant.

Links to recipes can be found at the bottom of this document.


Blackberry Plants



Space plants at least 3 feet apart with rows about five-eight feet apart. Blackberry

plants produce fruit on second year shoots called floricanes. During that second

year’s growth when the cane is flowering and fruiting, the plant is producing new

first year shoots called primocanes. At the end of each year, prune out the

floricanes, which were the branches that flowered and fruited that season. The

next year, the previous season’s primocanes are now floricanes, and they are

flowering and fruiting and the cycle continues. As a reminder to you as which

canes flowered and fruited, tie a string or ribbon around them to know which

canes to remove at the end of that season.

Rule of thumb: If the cane/limb hasn’t flowered, DO NOT cut if off.

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